It doesn't seem to matter at all what hair we were born with. After all, regardless of the type of hair, many of us spend a lot of time to change it. Those who by nature have curly, wavy or just unruly hair, dream of shining, perfectly straight hair, although it takes a lot of time and effort to achieve this.
Yes, the hair straightener is an effective tool, but daily hair straightening takes a lot of time, and if the hair is thick, then the hands just ache from fatigue. Not surprisingly, many of us are looking for ways to straighten hair for a longer period than one day. Another problem is that the constant exposure to chemical compounds adversely affects the health of the hair. Therefore, many people want to try promising methods of permanently turning unruly hair into perfectly smooth curls. But how does the method of permanent hair straightening work, and which method is the best?
How does chemical hair straightening
There are different methods of permanent hair straightening, but all of them, as a rule, use the same chemical compositions that change the structure of the hair. First, an alkaline solution is applied to the hair, which breaks the disulfide bonds that make the hair wavy or curly. After the waves have straightened, a neutralizing solution is applied to the hair in order to restore the normal pH value and form new bonds inside each hair, fixing its new structure and making the straightening effect permanent.
Used straightening chemicals
Although each company has its own method of preparing an alkaline solution, there are three main types of substances that work in the same way:
- The most aggressive and long-lasting agents are sodium hydroxide (or strong alkaline solution) straighteners. They can cause serious damage to the skin or hair. Their use is best avoided. But they work wonders when it comes to very disobedient and very curly hair.
- Guanidine hydroxide-based straighteners do not contain alkali and are considered to be more benign than sodium hydroxide solution, although they can cause skin irritation.
- In the third, most commonly used type of rectifiers, ammonium thioglycolate is used as the active ingredient. Sulfur-containing straighteners have the most gentle effect of all the chemicals used and are very popular as an effective means of straightening hair with minimal risk of damage. This type of straightener is used in the Japanese method of hair straightening.
Different types of straightening substances are not always compatible with each other, so those who have permanently straightened their hair or acted on their hair with the help of chemical preparations need to know which substances were used for this. For example, if you apply sulfur-containing preparations on hair previously treated with sodium hydroxide solution, the hair will be completely cut. Therefore, you need to be careful here.
What is the difference between the main methods of permanent hair straightening?
Now there are so many methods of permanent hair straightening used, that choosing which one is best for you, and what is the difference between them, is not an easy task. Among these methods, it is impossible to specify the best one, since the choice of method depends on the type of hair and on the expected results. Here are brief characteristics of the main methods, with an indication of their pros and cons.
Traditional hair straightening method
This method of hair straightening has been used for many years and involves the use of the above-mentioned chemical composition, straightening waves and curls (an alkaline solution is applied, then a neutralizing solution that fixes the hair in this state).
- With one of the more potent straighteners, you can straighten very steep curls and even coarse African curls.
- You can control the degree of hair straightening. You can simply turn the curls into waves, without full straightening, that is, this method allows you to vary the result.
- With this method, you can straighten hair, but you can not make them completely smooth. Therefore, for those who want perfect straight hair, this method is not suitable.
- As with any procedure that uses chemicals, there is a risk of hair damage.
How is chemical straightening done?
So, chemical hair straightening is done as follows. First, dry hair is combed, divided into strands, and then a chemical agent is applied that contains either sodium hydroxide or ammonium thioglycolate. The choice of means depends on the degree of curly hair.
If you use tools for chemical hair straightening based on sodium hydroxide, the hair does not need to be pre-treated with shampoo. And if the products are based on ammonium thioglycolate, then the hair must first be washed with shampoo.
The hair begins to process from the neck. If a strong chemical agent is used, then first use the base, which serves as a vaseline cream. This cream protects the scalp from chemical burns. And if you use a not too strong tool, then you can do without the basics. In addition, a protective cream is applied to the hair with a special brush or comb, which protects the hair itself from excessive harmful effects of chemicals and then a chemical preparation is applied. After some time, the hair is thoroughly washed in a large amount of warm water, and then treated with a special agent, fixing the results of straightening and neutralizing the action of the chemical agent. The neutralization process involves the oxidation and restoration of the pH level, which during the use of a chemical agent is greatly increased, which can cause swelling and further damage to the hair. Then the hair is again thoroughly washed and dried with a heated towel, and the towel is best used terry. And only after these stages proceed to hair styling.
What tools are used for chemical hair straightening?
When straightening hair by chemical means, the following means are commonly used:
- Chemical rectification chemical
- Neutralizer
- Shampoos that are specifically designed for chemical straightening.
- Special protective cream.
- Conditioners for hair straightening.
There are many different tools used for chemical hair straightening. But all of them can be divided into several main types. We have already told about two of them in this article - these are products based on ammonium thioglycolate and based on sodium hydroxide. Such tools are used most often. But there are several other types of chemicals - based on caustic soda and based on guanidine hydroxide.
Caustic soda products are the strongest. And they cause a lot of damage to hair, although the results from the effects of such products are as noticeable as possible. The concentration of caustic soda solution during chemical straightening can vary from 5 to 10%, which depends on various conditions and factors of hair straightening. The level of pH when using products based on caustic soda can vary from 10 to 14, and, the higher this indicator is, the faster the agent will work, but the more damage will be from straightening.
Guanidine hydroxide-based products cause slightly less damage to hair than caustic soda, but their effect is also weaker. Such products defat the scalp, therefore, if such products are used, special conditioners should be used both before and after applying the preparation.
As already mentioned in this article, a protective base is used for chemical rectification. Apply protective cream on the entire surface of the scalp with your fingers. Moreover, they must be processed with a cream around the neck, around the forehead, under the ears and above them. Protective cream plays the role of a protective barrier that protects the skin from chemical burns.
Also in the process of chemical hair straightening neutralizers are used, which are designed to stop the action of chemicals and restore the normal pH balance in the hair.
What is Goldwell?
If you decide to straighten your hair with the help of chemistry, then surely you have read and come across a lot about this procedure, such as Goldwell's chemical straightening. What is this concept?
So, Goldwell is a Japanese-German concern that has developed a special technology for chemical hair straightening. This technology is also called permanent. Thanks to permanent hair straightening, smoothness and shine of straightened hair is achieved, and the effect of Goldwell's chemical hair straightening lasts up to 9 months. If you decide to resort to permanent hair straightening, then you can ask in the salon, where the chemical hair straightening is carried out a photo before and after the procedure. You will surely notice that the hair not only does not look worse, but also, on the contrary, pleases the look with a healthy shine and perfect smoothness. Goldwell implies a rather soft hair straightening, due to which it becomes possible to dye hair on the day of the straightening procedure.
The only minus hair straightening technology Goldwell - the duration of the procedure. So, between the first washing of the head and the last can pass the whole 9 hours. It all depends on the length of the hair - the longer, the longer the process of straightening.
Goldwell hair straightening:
- It can be used with naturally curly hair, and after perm.
- Hair after this procedure is perfectly straight and smooth, their natural healthy shine is preserved.
- Hair that has undergone chemical straightening will not be curly again.
- Absolutely lost "fluffy" hair. They look heavier.
The composition of tools for hair straightening technology Goldwell includes such medical and caring components as:
- Silk proteins
- Vitamin C-DT
- Panthenol
- Cationic polymers
- Essential oils
- PH control system
- Betaine.
Goldwell products are suitable for all hair types. Also, these tools can easily cope with the hard hair of brunettes. From a series of products of this technology, qualified specialists can choose the formula that will be optimal for your hair.
Hair straightening at home
Unfortunately, chemical hair straightening at home cannot be done, since this procedure must be done exclusively by a professional. But for home conditions perfect thermal straightening option. For these purposes, it is best to use ironing irons with a ceramic coating, especially if you have to straighten hair in this way regularly. After all, irons with a ceramic coating not only straighten hair more carefully, but the effect of straightening is much better than that of metal irons.
The use of irons has its own nuances:
- To use hair straighteners on wet hair should not be - it will greatly damage the hair.
- If your irons are equipped with a thermometer, then do not forget to make sure that the temperature of the tool does not exceed 120 degrees.
- It is better not to use irons more often 2-3 times a week.
- Do not forget to use thermal protection products for hair.
Suppose, of course, chemical hair straightening at home is not available, but this method is quite acceptable, isn't it? In addition, straightening hair with irons or a hair dryer at home has one indisputable advantage over chemical hair straightening: reviews from many women will show you that straightening at home is undeniably cheaper. Something like a thousand to 15-25. On the other hand, at home to achieve perfect smoothness and brilliance will not work. Here, of course, chemical straightening wins.
In general, before you decide to finally get rid of curly locks, think three times: do you really need it? Read on the Internet in women's forums. After all, chemical hair straightening reviews of women who have gone through this procedure, I have a different character. So, some write that hair after chemical straightening becomes just extraordinarily beautiful, smooth, shiny and well-groomed. And others - on the contrary, that hair becomes very thin and more confused, creases appear on it, they get dirty faster ...
In general, how chemical hair straightening is done, what is needed for this, what effect from such “chemistry” we have told you, and it’s up to you and only you to expose your hair to this procedure or not! But regardless of your choice, we wish you to remain always beautiful and attractive.
Principle of permanent straightening
Permanent straightening strands is achieved due to the deep penetration of special chemical compounds into the hair shaft and a partial change in its structure. The principle of operation is the same as for chemical perm, only fixation is carried out not by a bobbin, but by leveling with an iron.
The main structural component of the hair shaft is keratin protein. It consists of many amino acids that form polypeptide chains. Approximately 14% of all amino acids in the composition of keratin is accounted for cysteine - a sulfur-containing amino acid.
Between the two cysteine residues, very strong disulfide bonds are formed, which serve to stabilize the tertiary and quaternary structure of the protein, determine its spatial structure and the method of laying individual polypeptide chains. This structure determines the shape of the hair. With straight hair, disulfide bonds are evenly distributed along the hair shaft. If curls are formed, then these connections are unevenly distributed, shifted to one side or the other.
How straighteners work
The mechanism of action of all means for permanent hair straightening is to break the existing disulfide bonds and the subsequent formation of new ones that fix the hair shaft in a predetermined position. Such disulfide bonds can be broken using the following chemicals:
- Formaldehyde. At present, means for straightening based on it are practically not used, since they are poisonous, cause severe irritation of mucous membranes, allergic reactions and other serious consequences for the organism of both the master and the client.
- Sodium hydroxide (alkali). It is a potent agent and is suitable for straightening very curly hair. However, after its use, long-term restorative treatment is necessary.
- Guanidine hydroxide. Rectifier medium strength, breaks the disulfide bonds, but very hygroscopic, therefore, takes away all the moisture from the hair. As a result, they become too dry and require procedures to restore the water-lipid balance.
- Ammonium Thioglycolate It has the softest effect of all medium-strength rectifiers, suitable for strands naturally curly.The greatest amount of used means for straightening contains this component in the composition.
- Ammonium sulfide or disulfide. They belong to weak rectifiers, give the effect of easy straightening. Used mainly for straightening damaged hair.
Marking of funds by impact
All means for permanent straightening should have a special marking that corresponds to their strength:
- 0 or 1 (strong fortress) - for the hard and strongly curly hair of the African type,
- 1 or 2 (medium strength) - for hair with a normal texture, medium wavy and thick,
- 2 or 3 (weak strength) - for problem, dyed and weak hair.
The funds with markings 0 or 1 contain the maximum concentration of the reducing agent of disulfide bonds; therefore, they are able to break more of them. They also contain alkaline components that promote swelling of the hair and provide deep penetration of the rectifying compound.
Important: Only a specialist should select the composition and manufacturer of the means for permanent hair straightening in each individual case. This will help to avoid such negative effects of the procedure as fallout, dryness, thinning.
Stages of the procedure
Permanent straightening is a rather lengthy procedure. Depending on the length, density and degree of curliness it can take from 5 to 9 hours.
First, a specialist must make a thorough diagnosis of the skin of the scalp, the structure of the strands and, on the basis of the information received, select the best means for straightening.
At the first stage, the master washes the hair of the client and dries it almost dry. Then it separates the hair into strands, fixes them with clips and applies a special means for straightening, starting from the back of the head and gradually rising upwards, to the crown and temples. It is necessary to withstand the rectifying compound, wrapping the head with cellophane film or wearing a special cap, from 20 minutes to an hour. After the time the agent is thoroughly rinsed with warm water and dried hair a little.
In the next step, a styling agent is applied with thermal protection and the strands are carefully straightened with a ceramic iron. The quality of straightening at this stage depends on the final result.
Next is neutralization (or fixation). To do this, a special tool is applied to all the hair, incubated for about 30 minutes, washed with warm water and dried head. With this method, new disulfide bonds are formed in the hair shaft, which hold the position given to it.
At the final stage, the strands are treated with conditioner, which has a moisturizing, nourishing and protective effect.
Recommendation: If potent chemicals are used for straightening, then to protect the scalp and hair follicles from a chemical burn, it is necessary to lubricate the head with Vaseline, a softening cream or a special protective agent.
For permanent straightening in beauty salons, the following sets are most often used:
- Straight’n Shine system from the German-Japanese company Goldwell,
- K_Straight and K_Straight Ionic complexes from the Spanish company Lakme,
- Quick Smooth system from the American brand CHI,
- system Permanent Thermal Hair Straightening line Senscience from the Japanese manufacturer Shiseido,
- HB Spruce Straight series from the Japanese brand Napla.
Post Straightening
Specific advice on hair care after permanent straightening should be given by the master who performed it.
In the first three, and preferably five days after the procedure, the hair requires particularly careful care. From that, how accurately the following recommendations will be observed, the further hairstyle depends. It is not allowed to perform the following actions:
- wash your hair
- brush your hair behind the ears,
- pin up strands with a hairpin, invisible, make a tail and in general any hairstyle,
- be in places with high humidity, especially to fall under the rain,
- use a comb with frequent pointed teeth,
- allow strands to hesitate during sleep.
Considering that after exposure to chemicals, hairs become weakened, it is recommended to make nourishing masks twice a week and use conditioner. Wash your hair with a soft, sulphate-free or baby shampoo. Drying hair is carried out in a natural way, without the use of a hair dryer (as a last resort, it can be dried in the mode of cold air).
Hair, straightened, will remain straight forever, but the newly growing areas will retain their natural structure. In order for the hairstyle to look perfect and no transitions between newly grown and straightened zones could be seen, after about 4–9 months (depending on the speed of hair growth and on how much regrown hair spoils the hairstyle), a correction is needed. At its carrying out only the grown-up sites of locks will be processed.
Video: Revitalizing hair care
This kind of straightening is quite a costly procedure. The final price of the service in beauty salons depends on a number of factors: the level of the salon, the qualifications of the master, the cosmetics used, the length and type of hair. Nevertheless, according to many female representatives, the result justifies the money spent.
When straightening with Goldwell's most popular Straight’n Shine system, the approximate cost of the service will be:
- for short hair - $ 100-150,
- for medium - 180-250 dollars,
- for long - 300-340 dollars.
A warning: Despite the high price of permanent straightening and the ability to purchase the necessary cosmetic products for its implementation, it is extremely not recommended to do it yourself at home. Lack of experience and necessary knowledge can cause irreparable damage to hair.
Advantages and disadvantages
With proper performance of permanent straightening, it is able to transform the look of a woman, her hair will be smooth, shiny, well-groomed. Its undoubted advantage is that after the procedure, you no longer need to spend a lot of time and effort on daily styling, just enough to comb. In addition, high humidity, heat, wind, swimming in the sea or pool, and even getting into the rain will not be able to spoil the hairstyle.
This type of straightening is also carried out for dyed and previously subjected to chemical perm hair.
The disadvantages of permanent hair straightening include the high cost of the procedure, the duration of its implementation, the need to constantly perform correction as hair regrowth, the difficulty of returning the previous hairstyle.
Contraindications
Permanent straightening has a number of contraindications. It can not be performed in the case of:
- identify allergies to any component of the rectifying compound,
- menstruation, pregnancy and lactation,
- bleached and streaked strands,
- effects on hair clarifiers, perm or dyeing 2 weeks before the procedure,
- sick weak hair
- seborrhea,
- hypertensive disease.
If serious illnesses have recently been transferred, it is better to postpone the procedure until complete recovery.
How does chemical straightening
What will be the structure of the hair determines heredity. If one of the parents curls curl, then the child with a probability of 50% will be curly. For curly hair is more difficult to care for, it is difficult to put and make a neat haircut. Therefore, for a long time the girls began to try to straighten the curls.
Means for styling and ironing have only a short-term effect, curls again begin to curl, and daily curls straighten harmful. Chemical straightening is often recommended to those who use ironing services. This procedure can also be done at home, but it is better to rely on a professional and go to a beauty salon.
Hair straightening using chemical means similar to a permanent perm, only with the opposite effect. A special liquid is applied to the curls, one of the main elements of which is sodium hydroxide or ammonium thioglycolate. It is thanks to the effects of these substances that the cuticle opens, the cortical layer softens, the disulfide bonds are destroyed. The structure of the hair itself is changing.
With the help of a potent sodium hydroxide straightener, you can smooth any hair, even African curls. However, it should be understood that this procedure harms curls and skin, and the composition is so aggressive that chemical burns can remain on the head. To avoid direct contact of the active substance with the skin, apply a protective agent, such as liquid paraffin. Ammonium thioglycolate products are more benign.
Chemical (permanent) hair straightening will allow washing, combing, laying strands and not fearing that they will curl again under the influence of moisture or heat.
Stages of straightening at home and in the cabin
Before starting straightening, select the appropriate tool. Tight curls can straighten only the composition based on sodium hydroxide. For light waves and thin hair, a sparing composition based on ammonium thioglycolate will suffice.
The process of permanent straightening can be divided into several stages:
- Brush the strands carefully. Means with sodium hydroxide are applied to dry curls. Before using products with ammonium thioglycolate, the curls are washed with a special shampoo.
- Apply Vaseline oil to protect scalp and hair follicles from burns.
- Apply the product, starting with the strands on the back of your head, moving in the crown and temples. Spread evenly.
- Wait 15-20 minutes for the rectifier to work. Wash off with plenty of warm water.
- Process the curls with a fixative compound to fix the result.
- Apply a neutralizing agent that will prevent excessive swelling of the hair and its damage, will normalize the pH.
- Rinse the strands thoroughly under running warm water, dry them naturally and lay them down.
Advantages and disadvantages
The procedure of permanent straightening has its advantages and disadvantages.
- do not have to use daily ironing
- it is easier to put curls, make hair,
- the result of the procedure will last for a long time,
- strands will be smooth and very obedient.
- hair will become dry, brittle,
- you can not do the perm.
- It is not recommended to paint curls and make highlights.
How long does the hair straightening effect? At the same time, the duration of the effect of the procedure can be attributed to both advantages and disadvantages. The fact is that permanent straightening is irreversible. Straighten curls do not have to, until they grow back. At the same time, if you don’t like the result, nothing will be fixed. The only way out is to cut the curls and wait for the new ones to grow.
How to care for straightened hair: effective means
Chemical methods of straightening hair curls. For head of hair need extra care. To curls were perfectly smooth, you need to follow some rules.
After straightening, you can not wash your hair for at least three days. This is necessary to ensure that the effect of the procedure is fixed. Also during the first five days you can not tie and pin up the hair, if possible let them loose. After exposure to chemicals strands are vulnerable and weakened, they are easy to damage.
Do not forget about the term of the ban on shampooing
Shampoo and balm must be chosen very carefully. It is best to use the tools that the master will recommend. Weekly it is necessary to make masks for deep moisturizing of hair.
Do not use hot tongs or a hair dryer after straightening. Strands should dry in an extremely natural way. Comb curls need a neat, smooth brush.
Chemical straightening is an effective procedure to help get rid of curls. But at the same time it is a serious step, as the hair will be weakened. Invert the result and again make curls impossible.
